MARCH 2023 The sudden rise in recreational yachts Why people are now buying fine jewellery online Modern Indian food: A new food language SPACE FOR ALL Is the fashion industry truly diverse?

MARCH 2023 THE GIST SIpring is here, and it brings with it a slew of fashion weeks, new collections at ateliers, new resolutions for a brand new finacial year, and brand new bucket lists. For our spring issue, as we set our intentions, we take a good look at how far the inclusive movement has come in the fashion and beauty industry, Whether inclusivity is performative, or has had some deep rooted change in how fashion talks of real people more than ever? And then in food, with experimentation being the flavour of the season, we dare to ask, is fusion really confusion? Or has Indian food had its most profound modernist movement, breaking away from the boundaries set by ‘traditional’ cooking to a bolder, spicier palate? Read chefs debating it out inside these pages. Since the season (and cherry blossoms) demand it, here are some bike-friendly places you could visit, and some gadgets that upgrade your home from oh-so-last season! A happy spring equinox to everyone! Payel Majumdar Upreti —Editor The modernist shift S O C I A L M E D I A ADVERTISING SALES Mumbai (022 – 6846 8500) Regional Manager (West) — Katty Gia (+91 98705 32295) • Senior Manager — Lamont Dias (+91 91674 14988) Delhi (011 – 4562 5810) Sr. General Mgr. (North) — Asha Augustine (+91 98182 80431) Kerala (+91 94140 69321) — Sanjai Krishnan Manager Mktg. Services — Salim B • Client Servicing Manager — Reshma Malvankar Founders — Marzban Patel / Anita Patel • Director Publishing — Indu Joshi Editor — Payel Majumdar Upreti • Writers — Arushi Sakhuja, Schenelle Dsouza, Jade Crasto Creative Director — Muhammad Jaan Faruqui This magazine is printed by and produced by Mediascope Representation (India) LLP. Opinions herein are the writers’ and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of Mediascope. Editorial enquiries concerning the reproduction of articles, advertising and circulation should be addressed to: LuxeBook, Mediascope Representation (India) LLP., 51, Doli Chamber, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, Mumbai 400005, India. Email: [email protected]. Material in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent of the publisher. extend your international limited warranty for up to 8 years on Mumbai – Palladium Mall, Lower Parel – Art of Time, Waterfield Road, Bandra New Delhi – DLF Chanakya Mall, Chanakyapuri – Kapoor Watch Co, Emporio Mall – Ethos Summit, Select City Mall, Saket Chennai – Ethos Summit, Palladium Mall I Bangalore – Ethos Summit, UB City Mall Gurgaon – Kapoor Watch Co, Ambience Mall, NH8 I Hyderabad – Ethos Summit, Road No. 12, Banjara Hills Kolkata – Ethos Summit, Shakespeare Sarani Road 2|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023

MARCH 2023 Photo Courtesy: Ritu Kumar 04 Trending 08 Smooth Sailing 06 Sparkling History 24 India and the World 20 Internet-ofThings 46 Travel-andLeisure 30 Everyday Treasures 14 Fitting in 38 International Food CONTENTS 2|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023

2 COMPILED BY SCHENELLE DSOUZA Ritu Kumar Set of 3 – `1800 When you think of spring, picturing bright colours and floral patterns is natural. However, spring 2023 unexpectedly strays away from the basics of prints and florals. Instead, we see renditions of bold hues, unique silhouettes and standout statement pieces. One of our favourite trends was the return of oversized handbags replacing micro bags with YSL’s ICARE maxi shopping bag showing up almost everywhere. Elsewhere, elegant add-ons like silk scarves, printed gloves and stockings became a frequent accessory both on the runway and the streets. Take a look at some of this season’s hottest accessories below. 1. Gucci GG Flora Print Silk Scarf When it comes to spring collections, no one does it better than Gucci. The brand has always stood for maximalism, and sometimes in the most elegant way. Their GG flora print scarf is one fine example boasting the brands routine archival design-inspired prints of intricate botanical motifs printed on a GG monogram base. Buy Here 2. Polo Ralph Lauren Round Sunglasses When it comes to sunglasses, not much has changed for the spring season. However, round frames are a popular trend at the moment. Keeping it light and colourful for the season, Polo Ralph Lauren combines polished acetate with a bold silhouette in neutral tones finished with a metallic logo detailing in gold along the temples. Buy Here 3. Prada Satin bucket hat with crystals The bucket hat is back, no thanks to shows like Emily in Paris, although Prada’s bucket hat was forever iconic! Cute and quirky, the bucket hat gets a glamorous touch, with white crystals on a black canvas to create plays of light and iridescent reflections. The hat is complete with Prada’s emblematic enamelled metal triangle logo. Buy Here 4. Valentino Toile Iconograph Long Gloves in Tulle A logo is a story, and Valentino’s Toile Iconographe collection tells a fascinating one. Designed to match the colour of the year of the Rabbit, these elegant nylon gloves feature an infinite repetition of the Valentino logo in a popping red hue printed on a neutral beige base. Buy Here Spring accessories for the season 5. YSL ICARE Maxi Shopping Bag Oversized bags are back, and YSL’s ICARE maxi bag is everywhere! Black might not be an ideal colour for spring, but that hasn’t stopped this beauty from showing up everywhere. Casual and elegant, the lambskin leather bag is decorated with a carré-quilted overstitching with an enormous YSL brass logo stitched onto the front. The bag comes with a removable pouch and can be worn wide or with closed sides. Buy Here 1 4 3 5 4|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|5 TRENDING

Jaipur is globally renowned for exquisite jewellery that is traditional, opulent and perfect for Indian weddings, and one such brand is Ghatiwala. The odyssey of Ghatiwala Jewellers is a story that began in the 1930s in Jaipur’s glorious alleys. It holds the memories of India’s grandest days, and breathes the legacy of both precious & semi-precious gemstones. The story began with M/S Kanhaiyalal Ghatiwala, for the import and trading of rough emeralds by Kanahaiya Lal Ghatiwala, later joined by his son Kishan Ghatiwala. This began the legacy of a brand whose name holds utmost respect and goodwill in Jaipur’s gem and jewellery sector today. It is only with the turn of the century that the third generation started manufacturing and became wholesale suppliers of jadau jewellery under the brand Ghatiwala Jewellers helmed by Abhishek Ghatiwala. Over the last decades, three generations of jewellers who learnt about cut and clarity at dinner table conversations, well before learning to walk, Ghatiwala family has grown to become the most trusted name in the world of emeralds and Indian jadau jewellery. Legacy in the modern world Having operated out of Johari Bazaar for decades- Jaipur’s iconic jewelley hub, the brand has recently turned a corner. Together with his wife Vinnie, Abhishek has transformed the traditional jewellery house into an atelier for the world, seeking inspiration from a city that breathes quiet elegance. The brand whose foundation is bridal jadau jewellery is now experimenting with design, materials and inspirations. Abhishek’s fascination with asymmetry has led to the creation of many unique pieces that reflect a combination of art and jewellery. The new range of rosecut diamonds is more appealing to a global aesthetic and is luxurious in the truest sense. Only a visit to the atelier can justify the beauty of these pieces when you see them with your own eyes. At Ghatiwala, quality, purity and perfection were conversations growing up at intimate family gatherings, resulting in craftsmanship that is universally celebrated in their collections. At Ghatiwala, those traditions of the past meet an aesthetic of the future. Modern retail experience Alongside design and manufacturing innovations, Abhishek has also reinvented the retail experience. The signature boutique, situated on a prime spot in Jaipur’s upscale Prithviraj Road, is a one-of-a-kind jewellery atelier reflecting the brand’s persona, and it is a place where Abhishek believes that his mindfully curated jewellery deserves to be showcased in an alluring vicinity, around an aura that makes you fall in love with the pieces immediately. Moreover, Abhishek believed that the brand needed to evolve with changing times, and he hence led its transition to the new logo and identity reflecting modernism. The G monogram incorporates the six traditional elements, signifying a perfect blend of modern and traditional aesthetics in Ghatiwala jewellery, an amalgamation of some common shapes and forms seen in polki and jadau jewellery, which is the specialty of the brand Ghatiwala. At the atelier, it is Abhishek’s eye for the minutest of details, maximum occupancy and the tasteful bespoke art installations that characterise the brand’s new identity of luxury and finesse. The atelier is aimed at creating a one-of-a-kind experience for patrons of Ghatiwala. It is neither a showroom nor a retail store; it is a house for the brand Ghatiwala. One can feel a sense of glory and splendour at the Ghatiwala atelier as each turn here narrates the story of their deep-rooted Indian traditions infused with contemporary aesthetics. Along with some of the finest jadau jewellery pieces on display, you can see sunlight creating majestic patterns in the courtyard; the atelier walls display mix-media art installations and tables accented with antique artefacts. “For over 70 years, Ghatiwala has not only promised exclusive and well-crafted Indian jadau jewellery but also delivered personalized experiences for our patrons. We recently opened the doors to the atelier of our dreams and we promise that it will set a new benchmark for our namesake authenticity, brilliant craftsmanship and unparalleled opulence,” says Abhishek Ghatiwala, CEO and Creative Director. The atelier combines royal tradition and revolutionary design for a contemporary world. Every piece holds the respect of a practice devoted to perfection, offering Mughal-inspired jadau jewellery, Art Deco jewellery and rose-cut antique jewellery. With the experience spanning decades, the Ghatiwala Jewellers has cemented its name as one of the most trusted Jadau jewellery manufacturers for its devotion to royal craft, purity and design of Jadau jewellery. Pret and bridal jewellery Abhishek envisions Ghatiwala as a signature brand globally for both prét and bridal lines in the jadau jewellery segment, showcasing a treasure trove of coloured gemstones and polki diamonds. His aim is to create unparalleled signature pieces that can’t be easily replicated. Ghatiwala also enjoys a loyal patronage in the Middle East and Hong Kong markets, but the Indian consumer with a love for traditional heirloom jewellery always remains Abhishek’s focus. His uncompromising eye for quality has resulted in the deep appreciation each creation receives. The future is bright and brilliant for Ghatiwala Jewellers under the leadership of their talented & visionary CEO and the next chapter will continue his pursuit for excellence. Charting Jaipur atelier Ghatiwala Jeweller’s journey in jadau and polki SPARKLING HISTORY Vinnie & Abhishek Ghatiwala An emerald and polki necklace set A set of rings from the Ghatiwala’s collection Model wearing a three row emerald bead necklace set Model wearing an emerald, ruby and polki necklace set 6|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|7

Yachts have always been recognised as a luxury lifestyle accessory and are oftentimes associated with luxury experiences such as on-sea celebrations, travelling to exotic beachy locations, or even just a day of leisure on a docked yacht. While many prefer to own one, chartering a yacht is said to be one of the best and most efficient ways to enjoy all the experiences on board without the hassle of upkeep. The demand for charter yachts has increased significantly over the last few years thanks to factors like a booming tourism sector, rising disposable incomes and people’s inclination towards recreational and leisure activities. In 2019, Grand View Research estimated the value of the charter yacht industry at US to be $6.5 billion. This value has been expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.2% between 2020 and 2027. According to the report, this growth is expected due to a growing preference among travellers for luxury maritime tourism and personalised services. Additionally, recreational boating activities have been a driving factor for the industry along with a significant contribution from corporate tourism activities as well. Indian charter yacht industry While the global industry booms, the charter yacht industry in India, too, has seen quite a rise in the past couple of years. More specifically, post Covid, yachting became the hot new leisure activity in India. And while many argue that owning a yacht has more or less the same benefits, chartering a yacht is more common, with online portals as well as offline bookings. The latter may be substantially high, but given the digital age we live in, there has been an increase in online portals which have proved to be a beneficial platform across the globe. Offering easy bookings and cancellations, and simplified methods to check availability have all attracted a higher number of customers. So what led to the rise in the charter yacht industry? Industry experts, Gautama Dutta – Chief Representative of Burgess Yachts India, Anju Dutta – Owner, Marine Solutions and Chetan Rane – Founder and Director, Fortune India Sailing, all agree that the pandemic had a significant effect on the sudden boom experienced by the charter yacht industry.“We, as Indians are social people,” says Anju Dutta.“We like to go out, be it with family or friends, we’re always looking for new things to do. And as people travel abroad and get the boating experience, they want to do it again, which has led to more people opting for charter yachts in India.” Buying vs renting It’s not uncommon for people to wonder which is better: buying or renting a yacht. While each has their own justification for picking either, we believe that both buying and renting have their own pros and cons. Anju Dutta draws a clever analogy of owning and renting a luxury car.“If you’re on holiday of course you should rent a luxury car to take you around. But it’s also nice to have your own personal car that you can keep in your garage and take out whenever you feel like it. It’s the same with a yacht. You can rent one when on holiday, but it’s nice to own one too!” While some feel that both owning and renting a yacht are more or less of the same experience, Gautama Dutta argues that they’re both very different experiences. “People usually rent a yacht when they go for a more wholesome experience like a trip with family or friends. (I personally love to own a yacht) but not everyone wants to deal with the stress and cost of maintaining a yacht.” Right enough, factors such as passion for sailing or taking the yacht out frequently, affordability and accessibility to a marina have seldom confused enthusiasts on whether owning or renting a yacht is the best possible decision. The matter of cost is, however, always at the forefront. It’s not just the cost of buying a yacht but maintenance as well. Regardless of the size of the yacht, maintaining a yacht usually costs as much as 10 per cent of the sticker price per annum. That is, excluding the cost of fulltime staff including a captain, engineers, stewards and stewardesses, chefs, and deckhands, many of whom are extremely important for larger yachts. You also don’t have to worry about storing your boat in the offseason, The sudden rise in popularity of CHARTER YACHTS BY SCHENELLE DSOUZA Thinking about renting a yacht? Here’s everything you need to know Gautama Dutta, Chief Representative, Burgess India Burgess 8|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|9 SMOOTH SAILING

saving yourself the cost and stress that comes from storing and docking your boat. Chartering on the other hand, is usually a hasslefree experience offering more or less the same benefits. Sacrificing complete ownership and some degree of freedom, yacht rentals still provide the same vacationing experience in the open sea. In addition to the above, chartering a yacht is a commitment-free investment which occasionally comes with a refundable deposit. A captain and crew are usually included while renting a boat, letting you customize your entire experience based on your crew needs. Yachting Tours While day trips are popular for the weekends, there’s no denying the growing popularity of destination yachts. Ditching planes, trains and any other form of transport, people are now beginning to travel by sea calling it a more wholesome experience. Post Covid, people have begun to charter yachts for a more memorable holiday with their loved ones. Goa Goa is by far one of the most popular destinations in India for a charter yacht holiday. In fact, Goa is the most popular destination for a holiday in India. Something about the quaint backwaters of this tiny state keeps calling out to people. And while taking a flight or train seems like the most common and preferred route, yachting is a whole other experience being far away from the crowd surrounded by the stunning landscapes of Goa. While many prefer to dock by the beach and enjoy a barbeque, visiting the islands is a suggested option. The pristine islands are perfect for a quiet getaway to unwind by the Arabian Sea or indulge in activities like dolphin sighting, fishing and snorkelling. Kerala Like Goa, Kerala’s backwaters are a real sight of beauty and boating in Kerala is on everyone’s to do list. So why not turn it into a yachting trip? It goes without saying that Alleppey is the most popular spot for boating in Kerala. Often referred to as the Venice of the East, Alleppey’s picture-perfect lagoons, mirrorstill backwaters and serene beaches are what make it an ideal spot for a serene experience. Alleppey, which is home to thousands of houseboats, is the ideal place to spend the weekend drifting in its waterways while admiring the breath-taking beauty that this area has to offer. Indulge in freshly prepared fish and duck in the traditional manner. The Vembanad Lake, Kerala’s largest backwater, contains the Alleppey Backwaters. Myanmar Myanmar has a vast coastline stretching right from the Andaman Sea in the south up to the border near Bangladesh and the Mergui Archipelago is one of Asia-Pacific’s best-kept secrets. Boasting as many as 800 islands, yachting in the Mergui Archipelago is like visiting paradise on earth. An expansive stretch of uninhabited land with untouched mangrove forests and tropical jungles, coves and pristine beaches, this location is perfect for a secluded yacht vacation. The perfect getaway to escape modern-day life with no phone or Wi-Fi signal, though this destination is so exclusive visitors will need to arrange a permit. Scuba diving and snorkelling are here are some great ways to explore marine life with abundant fish life and undamaged corals. Andaman A collection of remote archipelagos in the Bay of Bengal, Andaman is touted as one of the best exotic destinations in India with a prolific aquatic life and some of the best diving and fishing activities. The remote Similan Islands are filled with countless tropical beaches to choose from. A must however, is the unusual towering karst of Phang Nga Bay. Aside from these, trips to islands such as Inglis, Sister, Passage, Brother, Barren, Narcondom, Little Andaman, Interview, Neil, Cinque, Henry, Lawrence and Button are all worth your while. One of the busiest beaches, Havelock Beach Number Seven also known as Radhanagar Beach is home to one of the richest coral reef ecosystems in the world that remains undamaged by human activity. Burgess Yachts One of the most prominent yacht companies in the world, Burgess Yachts was founded back in 1975 by renowned solo ocean racer, Nigel Burgess. Operating in destinations across America, the Caribbean and Europe, Burgess Yachts has come to be recognised as a global leader in luxury yachts. The Asia office was formally launched in 2015 with offices in Hong Kong, Phuket, Tokyo, Singapore and Mumbai as well as an ‘Asia Desk’ in Monaco. Gautama Dutta who was appointed a few years ago is responsible Marine Solutions Anju Dutta, Owner, Marine Solutions Marine Solutions 10|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|11

Speaking about the services and amenities included, Dutta adds, “We give our clients an exclusive 5-star experience. There’s a concierge that will pick you up and bring you to the yacht. On board, there are a number of fascinating facilities. There is a cinema, gymnasium, swimming pools, open deck, and some even come with a helipad. You also have a full staff which includes Michelin Star chefs that will cook anything you need.” While Burgess specialises in yacht charter, the process of chartering a yacht goes well beyond the booking stage. “Compiling our intelligence, we can provide guests with the best itineraries to suit their preferences as well as organise private jet transfers, on board celebrations, luxury boat hire, restaurant bookings, spa treatments, fitness instruction and more.” Marine Solutions Established in 2003, Marine Solutions is recognised as one of the earliest leisure yachting companies in India and is tied up exclusively with premier international brands in the boating industry in India. Some of these include elegant Italian models like Ferretti Yachts, Custom Line, American Sea Ray™ sports boats and sports cruisers, Kawasaki’s Jetski™ and many more. Anju Dutta talks about Marine Solutions and its sister company Ocean Air’s association with brokering and chartering yachts. “Marine Solution is concerned with yacht retail and ownership while our sister company, Ocean Air specialises in chartering yachts. Usually many of the boats sold by Marine Solutions are returned to Ocean Air for charter because the owners don’t use it as much.” Although Mumbai based, Marine Solutions has offices in Goa and Calcutta along with a fully functional marina, the Britona Yacht Station in Goa which provides berthing, fresh water, electricity and services to a large number of yachts in Panjim, Goa as well as yacht services at moorings off Gateway of India, Bombay and at Eden Garden in Kolkata. “People usually prefer day cruises.A lot of them want to just go see the lighthouse or go across to Alibaug for the day. That is in Mumbai. In Goa we usually get requests to cruise in the river, visit the Grand Island for snorkelling or even have a beach barbeque, which is a very popular request especially in Goa.” for operations in Mumbai, Sri Lanka and the Maldives. Notably, the Asia team comprises very experienced Asian yachting professionals many of whom are able to converse with clients in Mandarin, Cantonese, Japanese, Thai, Indonesian and Hindi. The company specialises in superyachts and megayachts only measuring 30m and above. To put into perspective, “The smallest yacht at Burgess is bigger than the largest yacht currently in India,” Gautama Dutta points out. These can easily fit fifty to sixty people excluding the staff, although the official guest capacity remains at 12 people per yacht. “Every charter yacht in the Burgess fleet is unique, right from the design on the interiors to the amenities, watertoys and service provides. Based on a client’s requests and requirements, the yacht is prepared to ensure the best experience is enabled,” adds Gautama Dutta. Marine Solutions 12|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023

L ast year’s Fashion Week presented more or less the same bunch of tall, skinny models with conventionally perfect hair and body. This year however, the runway looked a bit different, more ‘inclusive’ with a total of five curvy models and one transgender model in a swarm of conventional bodies. So, was that enough representation? I hardly think so, and here’s why. Sitting on the front row on Day 1 of Lakmé Fashion Week, I watched patiently hoping to catch a glimpse of at least one unconventional looking model. I smiled almost immediately when I saw a mid-sized model tread the runway, but not before noticing the way she had been sidelined. Although beautifully styled and confident in her walk, this model appeared to be dressed in what could only be described as a safe outfit meant to conceal her curves. She was then followed by a tall, thin model dressed in a daring fashionable outfit flaunting her body, in stark contrast to the previous girl. The ploy of playing it safe with a curvy body sends across the message that a body that doesn’t fall into the ‘conventional model’ bracket is to be hidden away with layers. While most of the showcases at fashion week disappointed when it came to being an inclusive space, Anuu’s Creation, helmed by designer Annu Patel featured real women, with curvy models no taller than 5’6”. This left us impressed because although other designers attempted to include curvy models in their show, not one of them stood shorter than 5’10”. Speaking about her decision to include shorter models, designer Annu Patel shared, “We had a talented bunch of models and influencers walking for us and we strongly intended to include varied body types. We believe that every body is positive and every shape and shade is beautiful. Fashion is for everyone irrespective of body type, shape and height and we tried to convey the same through our line-up.” During the rest of fashion week, while others cheered on at the so-called acceptance of the different body sizes, if you scrutinised closely, not one of them was allowed to show off their curves with confidence. Loose, oversized silhouettes, long sleeves, safe and comfortable was the theme for the said curvy models, while the not so curvy ones walked baring it all. So where does inclusivity really fit in here? Diversity and inclusion are a growing trend across the globe and especially in the fashion industry, which has drawn flak previously for promoting a certain body image and type, which is more often than not Euro-centric, heteronormative, fatphobic and discriminatory in other ways. While diversity is about representation of different parts of society, inclusion is about how well the contributions, presence and perspectives of different groups of people are valued and integrated into an environment. Brands talk inclusive fashion How far have we come in representing real people at the fashion centrestage? BY ARUSHI SAKHUJA & SCHENELLE DSOUZA Colour Inclusivity, LoveChild By Masaba FITTING IN 14|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|15

everybody to strive to fit into ‘that’ dress. Body-positivity has been a common thread in fashion, today it includes gender, class, size, colour and more. However, true inclusivity means ensuring diversity and representation both on and offstage. Brands and diversity Recently, Sahib Singh, a four-year-old boy’s image went viral on social media when he became Burberry children’s first Sikh model. And it was instantly recognised for its hat-tip to inclusivity. Victoria’s Secret also introduced their first model with Down Syndrome. Athleisure brand Nike has been a constant champion of diversity, with its campaigns like “Until We all Win” which highlights the power of sport to unite and inspire people from diverse backgrounds. Back home, Mohey’s Kanyamaan campaign with Alia Bhatt aimed to promote a more inclusive and equal space for women in marriage and life. Through the film, Bhatt talks about a new idea that creates a union between the ritual itself and its underlying thought process placed in modern context. Dove’s StopTheBeautyTest was a powerful film which showed us real stories of beauty-based judgment and rejection faced by women during the matchmaking process, and the impact this has on their self-esteem. Inclusive marketing starts with countering stereotypes, to create a vision that consumers can resonate with and embrace. There has been a shift in campaigns featuring stories of real people told sensitively that have the power to draw an emotional connect. Fashion and racism The fashion industry has been called out for racism and its lack of representation for decades. In a 2021 UK study, 90% of respondents believed that fashion industry images did not show a range of bodies and identities, and 87.5% felt they were not represented in fashion industry advertisements or on the catwalk. The re-emergence of the Black Lives Matter movement in the West in the early pandemic days served as a final wake up call for fashion. The Spring 2022 Fashion Month was the most racially diverse fashion season, with 48% of appearances made by models of colour. Yet, behind the scenes, people of colour remain temporarily employed, with not enough nonwhite designers, proving that the illusion of diversity doesn’t equal a diverse industry. In terms of size inclusivity, body positivity seems to be more performative than anything else. Content creator Sanjana Rishi who recently became a mom, spoke to Luxebook about the reality of inclusivity in the industry.“I fear thatinclusivity is a trend—a lot of brands will do one ‘inclusive’ campaign, pat themselves on The idea of inclusivity has gone past merely fashion to touch upon several aspects of life. However, a large part of it remains performative and does mere lip service rather than bring in real change. As the idea takes root in the mainstream, especially among the GenZ, brands are trying to be more inclusive both in their product likes and marketing campaigns.The idea is to find clothes that fit everybody, rather than get the back, and declare themselves inclusive. But in actuality, that is at best inclusivity I’m representation. These brands need to also be inclusive of their customers by ensuring sizes are available and/or customizable without extra charge.” India’s design industry is moving towards a more progressive fashion industry with fashion weeks that are paving the path for a change in society. Brands too are adopting a more inclusive approach such as Ritu Kumar’s photo series ‘Equally Beautiful’ that features ethnically diverse models to highlight India’s ethnically diverse landscape. Noteworthy is also Gaurav Gupta’s work who has been an advocate of inclusive clothing. His ‘Name is Love’ campaign and seminar on inclusivity called the ‘The Love Festival’ focused on stories of a group of models and their struggles and triumphs with their different gender identities. The show featured trans, non-binary, and plussized models and same-sex couples wearing clothes with non-traditional embroidery and voluminous ruffles to show the fluidity of the couture. It was in 2017, when the first transgender model Anjali Lama, modelled for the Lakme Fashion Week in India and the landscape has changed since then in India. Back in 2018, Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty show was a gamechanger, as a celebration of womanhood in all shapes, colours, and sizes, #EquallyBeautiful inclusive campaign by Ritu Kumar 16|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|17

When it comes to platforms like fashion runways,these have managed to present nothing more than concealed efforts of tokenism. Take for example the FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week. Touted as one of the most prestigious and influential platforms in the country, Lakmé Fashion Week manages to grab the attention of pretty much everyone in the country, and yet its efforts to accurately represent real people seems to be almost non-existent. Designing for real bodies Designer Saisha who showcased her collection at Lakmé Fashion Week this year, spoke openly about the role of inclusivity on the runway as merely an act to be woke and cool. “Inclusivity means having a balanced pool of models, not just plus sized models but real women with real bodies – different shapes, sizes and even heights. I believe that the day we give importance to modelling as a profession for women and girls of all heights, shapes and sizes, and have them trained without any prejudice, is the day we’ll see any real change. Until then, any attempts at trying to incorporate inclusivity will always be about being woke.” Suruj aka Glorious Luna spoke to LuxeBook about their journey in the industry, and their honest opinions of the conversation of inclusivity. “In a conservative country like India, accepting yourself and be able to sustain yourself with a job and any other opportunity is difficult. I believe our country needs some queer icons because growing up I never could relate to anybody I saw on television; there weren’t very many queer icons, and the ones that were there, were meant solely for mockery. And so, fashion and beauty were the only language I knew and understood, one that I could experiment with to express how I feel. Today, a majority of the people working in looking fierce and fearless. In 2020, Gaurav Gupta’s digital fashion week had a diverse casting from the LGBT community. Today, androgynous clothing that has been a staple in the West has also seen a rise in the Indian fashion sphere.The Indian fashion industry is attempting to create diverse visual imagery and moving away from standard European notions of beauty. Inclusivity champions In the beauty industry, designer Masaba Gupta’s new beauty line LoveChild has a distinct political message. With a varied product line of high-performance colour cosmetics, skincare and wellness solutions, the brand campaigns are designed for every age group, with colours developed to suit especially Indian skin tones. Speaking on building an inclusive brand she said, “I wanted to build something that did not bind women with preconceived notions of beauty and skincare. Honesty, inclusivity and efficacy have always been a top priority while creating LoveChild. LoveChild is so much more than just makeup; it is love for your skin. It is a journey of nutrition, fitness, and wellness alongside beauty. With LoveChild, we have focused not only on colour but also on a holistic cosmowellness range. My aim with LoveChild was to keep it simple and accessible to everyone.” Fashion giant Zara launched a new beauty line that is impressively inclusive with over 50 foundation shades to suit every skin type as opposed to the usual four or five shades with the darkest just a few shades deeper than beige. However, there is still a long way to go to ensure that inclusivity permeates the industry at every level, rather than just at a few catwalks and advertisements. Sanjana Rishi gave us a valid point to ponder over, she believes….”India has come far in the inclusivity battle, but not far enough. We need to do a lot more to make women who aren’t stick thin to feel included as customers. We need to celebrate the icons that Indian women, of all shapes are, regardless of their physical appearance.” Tokenism or real change With the conversation surrounding inclusivity doing its rounds, the term has come to be more of a buzzword in the industry, much like the term “sustainability”. the fashion and beauty industry are queer. They might’ve had to conceal their identity initially, but things are slowly changing. I feel seen and heard as a queer person.” More queer representation Speaking about India’s role with representation, Luna believes the country is trying and has even come a long way. “India might not be as accepting as the West, but I do believe we’re getting there, although it is a long journey ahead. When it comes to creative fields like fashion and beauty, the industry is quite accepting. But there needs to be more queer representation in corporate spaces where queer people are strongly discriminated against and hardly ever taken seriously.” marking a watershed for the global fashion scene. However, one fears a backlash, with the New York Fashion Week this year being called out recently for the noted presence of only fair, skinny models. “The international fashion weeks, for example, were markedly missing the same inclusivity they were being lauded for last season. I hope it’s not like that for us,” said Rishi. Fashion and queerness After the Supreme Court of India decriminalized section 377 (Indian Penal Code), The Spring Summer 2019 edition of Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week (LMIFW) organised by FDCI closed with a spectacular ‘Rainbow’ fashion show! 40 designers from across the country paid tribute. Models walked the LMIFW runway in bold designs, LMIFW Rainbow show Anjali Lama, First Transgender Model LoveChild By Masaba 18|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|19

Themis Smart Mirror CareOS, a subsidiary of the French health tech company Baracoda is an up and coming smart home company which introduced the Themis Smart Mirror, a wellness companion for your bathroom or spa. Themis smart mirror focuses on home health and wellbeing. Install the mirror in your restroom and use it to evaluate your hygiene, mental wellbeing, skincare regimen, and other things. The mirror is equipped with a camera, an infrared temperature sensor, and a UV skin examination light. It monitors various health markers and uses this data to deliver health-improvement advice. It boasts a 10-inch touch screen and is the perfect size for placing over your bathroom sink. TCL Breeva Air Purifier TCL Breeva Air Purifiers are so effective that they may provide cleaner and fresher air in as little as 12 minutes! The Breeva Air Purifier’s 360-degree in-take and effective room circulation make it ideal for spaces ranging from 365 to 883 square feet. The 5-stage filtration technology Best SMART GADGETS for your home BY JADE CRASTO A smart home gadget or accessory is a gadget which links to a hub and allows you to control some aspects of your house via your smartphone or the internet. The finest smart home device is determined by your requirements. Do you want to see who is standing in front of your house? Then a smart doorbell or camera system will be ideal. Do you desire a hub that will provide you with daily information as well as music? Then you’ll want a Google Home or Amazon Alexa device. Alarms, smart locks, thermostats, fans, and cameras are among the hundreds of smart home gadgets available. Most individuals begin by installing tiny devices such as cameras, plugs, and window sensors when creating a smart home. A more tech-savvy homeowner would wish to upgrade to a completely smart and automated alarm system, install thermostats for heating and cooling, utilise smart vacuums and mop heads, and do other things. If you’re a smart home beginner, we’ve rounded up a list of some of the best gadgets to make your home smarter! Philips Hue White A19 Starter Kit The Philips Hue White starting kit comes with two bulbs as well as a hub for connecting them to other smart home devices. While you cannot modify the colours of these bulbs, you can vary their brightness (up to 800 lumens) and connect up to 50 to a single hub. Philips bulbs are also compatible with a variety of smart home technologies, such as Alexa, Apple HomeKit, IFTTT, Google Home, and Nest. It also includes the Philips Hue Sync software, which allows users to connect their smart lights with multimedia data on their Mac or Windows Computer. You may programme your lighting to strobe and change colours in sync with the music, video, and movies playing on your computer. INTERNET OF THINGS 20|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|21

guarantees that the air in your house is pure and healthy. With Auto Shield mode, you can protect yourself and your family, even your animal friends. With an innovative air quality monitoring technology that includes a highprecision laser and VOC sensor,Auto Shield automatically detects the air quality in your house and adjusts the fan speed to keep your air really clean. Amazon Astro Amazon Astro is a robot that zips around your house keeping you company, responding to Alexa voice requests, connecting you to family and friends, keeping you occupied, and transporting stuff from room to room for you in its cargo basket. Despite its adorable, petlike appearance, the Astro also functions as a roving inside security camera and can defend your house by sending notifications if it detects alarms, broken glass, or intruders. While it is presently only available by invitation and its expensive price puts it out of most people’s grasp, the Astro is a useful and entertaining addition to any smart home. Brava Glass Countertop Oven With the Brava Glass smart countertop oven, you can have an immersive culinary experience. On the front of the oven, there is a cutting-edge glass pane. The goal is to provide consumers with a complete and clear view of the appliance’s interior and lighting as food cooks to perfection. Furthermore, this gadget can Air-Fry, Roast, Bake, Sear, Toast, Reheat, Rice Cook, Slow Cook, Dehydrate, and Stay Warm thanks to the Pure Light Cooking Technology. In fact, a heat-resistant internal camera and machine vision are used to monitor cooking process. Remote watching is also possible on mobile devices thanks to the mobile app. With a 97% tinted glass screen, this smart oven can now make preparing five-star meals at home as simple as possible. Kohler Anthem Digital Valves and Controls With the Kohler Anthem Digital Valves and Controls, you can create a spa-like atmosphere in your own home.They supply variable pressures, temps, and spray settings to each water outlet at the same time. All it takes is a single button press. Showering with both hot and cold water delivers hydrotherapy effects comparable to those seen at a spa. In addition, The Anthem digital smart showering systems may control up to six water outlets. Then, after your shower, they show you how much water you’ve used, keeping you informed about your use. Furthermore, the Anthem collection’s gadgets have a sleek, minimalist design and come in colours such as Vivid Brushed Moderne Brass and Matte Black. Ecovacs Deebot T10 Plus Robotic Vacuum With the ECOVACS DEEBOT T10 PLUS robotic vacuum, you can have immaculate floors every day. With a gorgeous design, this clever robotic vacuum combines strong suction and sonic mopping. All you have to do is sit and relax. This is due to the fact that it has an integrated air freshener. It also has a Starlight front-facing camera so you can keep an eye on things while you’re gone. In fact, the vacuum’s OZMO Pro 3.0 mopping power ensures superior cleaning. The vacuum builds an accurate map of your environment using TrueMapping navigation. As a result, the DEEBOT T10 Plus is ready to map out an effective cleaning path. NOMVDIC X300 smart portable speaker and projector You can take the NOMVDIC X300 smart portable speaker and projector everywhere you go.Harmon Kardon designed it, combining outstanding technology and stunning aesthetics. It not only produces enjoyable music but also emits a 100” projection for movies anyplace. It includes a built-in battery and a cable-free design with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connection, making it ideal for onthe-go entertainment. Furthermore, the control knobs on this 2-in-1 Full HD projector are reminiscent of analogue devices and hi-fi flair. It is inspired by light and shadow and is made out of leather and metal parts. You’ll like the 3,000,000:1 ultra-high contrast ratio and 3D Blu-ray capability. The integrated Harman Kardon speakers and two sets of tweeters and woofers, which are driven by a 30W Class D amplifier, also provide excellent sound. 22|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|23

The culinary scene in India has truly arrived. Going beyond traditional fare, modern Indian food is being celebrated worldwide. While top restaurants like Indian Accent are now part of the establishment in New York, Trishna, known for its coastal food has opened doors in London’s Marylebone High Street, and Jamavar is synonymous with the classic luxury dining experience it provides there. Are Indian restaurants breaking out of their traditional mindset and serving up dishes that celebrate and showcase the diversity and range of the entire country? ‘Modern Indian Food’ denotes a new take on homegrown cuisine where there are no set rules. In the mood for tandoori lamb and dosai but also game for a flambéed leg of lamb or a mackerel dosai with tomato chutney? There is a growing number of Indian restaurants, serving both modern and progressive styles of cuisine, and revamping classic dishes such as chicken tikka and tandoori chicken in a whimsical array of textures and flavours. “When it comes to ‘Modern Indian Food’ worldwide, chefs today are experimenting a lot with form and flavour, “With certain dishes, we try and keep the form of the dish similar to how it is originally supposed to be and take the flavour to another dimension. Alternately, we keep the flavour original and present it in a modern way. This, in my opinion, forms the realm of progressive, or how I like to call it – ‘Forward Thinking Indian Food’, says Hussain Shahzad, Executive Chef at The Bombay Canteen and O Pedro. ‘Fusion is confusion’ Michelin star chef Suvir Saran who is known for his restaurants Devi and Tapestry in New York along with the House of Celeste, believes that the term fusion food often leads to confusion and blurring of lines about the authentic origin of a certain cuisine. Fusion robs both people and chefs of satiety and comfort. Fusion in the world of food is a dirty word representing soulless food prepared mindlessly with a zero-sum game led by greed and profiteering. A smart chef and diner look at food as being part of a rich mosaic and takes from it those flavours and bites that give them pleasure. We are slowly but surely getting to that plane.” BY ARUSHI SAKHUJA Is fusion really confusion, or have we arrived at a more refined, eco-conscious, experimental palate? Beyond tikka masala: What is modern Indian food? Hussain Shahzad, Executive Chef at The Bombay Canteen & O Pedro, Mumbai Canteen Undhiyu Okonomiyaki, The Bombay Canteen, Mumbai INDIA AND THE WORLD 24|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|25

Modern Indian cuisine carries varying interpretations. In the 1980s, the word “modern” was used to present food in elegant and refined ways to match the ambience of iconic restaurants, such as Bukhara and Dum Pukht in New Delhi. The next wave came in the mid-1990s when dishes such as flambéed gulab jamun and grilled meat with brown sauce were seen in hotel restaurants. However, this concept didn’t receive much appreciation in India as people were still looking for food that was served at home and weren’t adventurous to new food ideas. In the early 2000s, with more Indian chefs returning from overseas, they brought back western influences and experiences to change India’s food scene. With influences from French and Italian cuisines, flavours have become less intense and pungent, and dishes took new forms in pizzas, burgers and tacos in casual eateries. The Modernist Movement Traditional Indian food had taken on various influences from the French fine dining world that involved individual plating and using French-style sauces to tapas-style small plates from Spain. Here influences of the were infused with Indian cuisine and traditional Indian dishes were reinvented in terms of both technique and presentation. Thick curries became French-style sauces and separate courses became a norm. London and New York woke up to Indian menus that served individual-plated portions of food. Then came Gaggan Anand and Manish Mehrotra who added creativity and a fun twist to dishes. Anand broke the rules and created the greatest Indian restaurant in the world — Gaggan— in the unlikeliest of places, Bangkok. Manish Mehrotra, on the contrary, redefined Indian food while living in India with the cult restaurant Indian Accent and gave birth to a new era of Indian food. Today, the scene is flourishing with successful restaurants across the globe. The chefs who started the modernist movement used techniques to enhance the visual and sensorial aspects of the dishes they served. Never did they want to take away from the traditional essence of what that dish meant, but simply make it more theatrical. Soon, the fancy presentations became more important than the flavour. “This is perhaps specific to restaurants that offer only a tasting menu where the entire concept is focused on an experience or a journey. Tasting menus reflect a chef’s personality, creativity, vision and own expression of food. As chefs, there’s so much we would like to offer our diners that can enhance their experience and open their minds to a certain cuisine or certain flavours and that can only be achieved when you move out of the standard dining patterns,” shared Chef Himanshu Saini, Corporate Chef, Trèsind. On the flip side, Saran “As an Indian chef I find it sad to see what people think of as food in India right now. Fine dining is a word that has casual and superficial meanings. Few invest time to question what chefs are serving, and when, and how. That appalling disconnect has fed and bred terrible trends like fusion. Hopefully, as people go away from food served in mini pressure-cookers and gol gappas in shot glasses, they will finally appreciate a cuisine that is modern and connected to its roots while also being progressive, inventive and comforting.” Small plates The last wave is a move away from seated multiple-course meals to a night out. Spanish tapas-style small plates don’t seek to impress with gimmicky theatrics, but still root to make you happy. In an interview Manjunath Mural had said that “Modernising Indian food is about using ingredients and cooking techniques from other cuisines, but still retaining a touch of Indian flavours.” Shahzad draws Jamavar Mount Street The Mango Kulfi Falooda Chicken Chettinad Green Pea Tokri Chaat, The Bombay Canteen Chef Himanshu Saini, Corporate Chef, Trèsind Chef Manish Mehrotra, Indian Accent, New Delhi 26|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|27

standards and techniques. People have started looking for inspiration outside the realm of Indian cuisine.” For instance, Shahzad says, techniques like fermentation are applied to Indian cuisine in a very different way to give it a new flavour dimension. For instance, the use of rose petals at The Bombay Canteen, to make vinegar gives the dish and ingredients a new flavour dimension. The Bombay Canteen also uses left over pao to make pao-miso which is used to impart more flavour to a dish. “The dish that is created using these ingredients is very Indian, but what we are doing is just applying a Japanese technique to an Indian ingredient. Holistically, it still remains very Indian,” he concludes. Saran also points out that innovation is at its peak when looking at modern Indian food, “ Innovations are aplenty but few work magically. Young chefs are successfully using modern equipment to create authentic dishes that bring comforting satiety and deep pride. Gastronomy when created with heart and soul, and packed with flavour- can be that much-needed bridge that shall turn Indian cuisine into a world class one.” The overseas boom “The Indian diaspora is well entrenched in every city and nation of the world with an exciting food scene,” feels Saran. The western world has become well-versed in Indian cuisine, and it is now commonplace to find Indian food represented in restaurants around the world. To a difference between the second and third wave with suitable examples. “Initially, what chefs were trying to do was to present Indian food in a French format to pander to the audience of the western world. Nothing wrong with it actually, what we tried and did was – we cooked Indian food in their way, using their cooking methods and philosophies. Versus what we are trying to do today is take Indian flavours and apply them interestingly in different formats and textures. For example: Ceviches and Tartares made with locally sourced produce and seafood are now a part of Indian cuisine because there is an audience in India and abroad for it – this wasn’t the case a few years ago.” Hence, we can say modern Indian food is about technique, and it plays a big part in shaping a cuisine. New innovations in Modern Indian Food India is at the cusp of innovation and modernization when it comes to culinary experiences. Chef Himanshu Saini, Corporate Chef, Trèsind attributes innovation in today’s time to the use of indigenous and native ingredients by adopting modern cooking techniques. The narrative of Indian food is changing significantly believes Saini. “Indian restaurants have always existed overseas but what’s changing now is their representation. Many Indian chefs around the world are breaking preconceived notions about Indian food and the way it is being presented, at par with international cuisines and flavour profiles during that time.” Over time people have realised that Indian food is beyond curries and naan and has so much more to offer. He continues to say, “Earlier, people internationally thought that ‘curries and naan’ was the only type of Indian food that was available. Off lately, there has been a lot of attention that is given to the types of Indian cuisine and what it has to offer at global platforms which is why it is having its moment, and it is a great thing!” With the recent rise of the pop-up culture, Indian chains are treading into international waters more seamlessly. “We have done a bunch of international popups with The Bombay Canteen, the recent most being at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, USA and people internationally have received it phenomenally well.” Shahzad attributes the success of these pop-ups to the way the flavours of India are paired with the produce of the native country or region. “This just creates magic on a plate because the product is something the people there are familiar with, and the flavour is something they are trying for the first time.” At the end of the day, modern Indian food today (or in fact Indian food) isn’t meant to awe you, it’s just supposed to make you happy. Today, Indian restaurants are celebrating and showcasing the diversity and range of our entire country. Indian cuisine has found its voice, shedding labels and categorisation, infused with a spirit of discovery, imagination and curiosity that is truly modern and truly limitless. cater to palates across the globe, chefs are creating dishes that are an amalgamation of Indian flavour profiles along with global flavours. Think unique pairing, reinvention of dishes and experimentation. However, it is a challenge for chefs to adapt to an audience around the world, and also ensure the dish sings on each of their palates. “I prepare Indian food abroad for an audience who are not very familiar with India’s culinary history or the diverse flavours that comes from every corner and region of India so the responsibility to showcase flavours abroad needs to be taken seriously. When I cook in India, the diners are very well educated about the food, but it is the presentation and interpretation of a dish that becomes a point of focus. To bring something familiar in an unfamiliar manner is a challenge that keeps helping me push my boundaries.” Pointing out the downside, Hussain Shahzad believes that in India, we have access to amazing locally grown produce which is not as easily available when you are cooking internationally. Another difference is that there is not so much glorification of local Indian ingredients in India as it is abroad hence making the task a tad more challenge in the country of origin. Yet another noteworthy point that led to the rise of Indian food globally is the pandemic. Indian food became one of the most ordered cuisines during the pandemic shared Shahzad. He believes this boom is due to…” reasons like – it travelled well, and also because people were open to trying and exploring lesser-known Cannoli filled with minced lamb topped with pickled onion served with mint chutney Sarson Ka Saag Kulcha, The Bombay Canteen Podi Beef, The Bombay Canteen 28|LUXEBOOK|MARCH 2023 MARCH 2023 |LUXEBOOK|29

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